by jbclem » Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:56 am
When I had the Fuji tree I lived at the foot of Topanga Canyon, a five minute walk to the Topanga Beach. At that location (25 years there) on a really cold night the temps would get down to the low 40's. I never figured the number of chill hours I had there, but I had a Royal Apricot tree (needs 300 hours chill) and it didn't have fruit very often (probably not cold enough for the fruit to set). I've seen Fuji listed as needing 350-500 chill hours and I've seen it listed at 100-400 chill hours. By deduction you could figure that I must have been getting less then 300 hours, yet the Fuji, which had just started to produce fruit, had some really good and large fruit one year, and the next year I don't remember, and then I moved and tried to transplant it but it didn't survive at it's new home.
The thing about apples is that they are more adaptable that people used to think. There are also tricks you can try if you have really warm years, such as stripping the leaves from the tree at wintertime. This apparently fools some trees into setting fruit even without the required chill.
Based on my experience, I'd say try a Fuji. But first do some research to find out which rootstock might give you the best chance...I think I've heard that M111 rootstock will make apples more adaptable climate wise, and it certainly is the strongest and best rootstock for hot summers, and dry areas. I'm getting all my apples on this rootstock now, they are supposed to be more vigorous, more precocious, more drought resistant...the only tradeoff is that you probably will be pruning them for size more because they tend to be large trees(85% of standard size). But personally I'm not worrying about that, survivability is much more important to me.
Also, if it turns out the weather is too warm for the Fuji, just learn how to graft and turn part of it into an Anna, Dorsett, Braeburn, Pink Lady, Gala, Gordon, or whatever other low-chill varieties are available. If you don't know how to graft, simple...join the local CRFG and go to their winter scion exchange where you can learn to graft (watch demonstrations) and also get scionwood from other varieties. Scionwood are the cuttings from other trees that you would graft onto your tree.
Hope all this wordiness helps...
jc